Hey folks, below is a draft concept for a community climbing event at Mount Buffalo. This is in response to a growing interest amongst Ovens valley ‘new generations’ mountain folk, and the broader climbing community, who are keen to learn where, and what the climbing offering is out here. It’s a big place, with lots of options, and its hard to sift the quality climbing from the rubbish, particularly from the top, which is where everything starts. The below proposal amalgamates a few projects that I have been working on, it borrows from the Backcountry Festival Format, parks the Arcteryx Camp-out series against it… and I reckon it could be a ripper. Logos etc are indicative as to ‘who’s in the zoo’ on this project.
I published the Buffalo climbing guidebook back in 2008, I grew up climbing here with the ‘Old Guard’ who have moved on… Back in the day it was common for there to be a collaborative ‘I’ll leave my rope on climb A for you If we can use yours on climb B?’, and this is how to get more climbing done. Exposé synthesises this practise, and it makes for a fun and exciting couple of days climbing.
I’m looking for sponsors to cover some hard costs (mainly rope), insurance, and the opening and closing events. The guiding products will be tendered by independent (insured) guides/instructors from the valley and the Arcteryx ambassador stable, they will take home that guiding revenue, working as a co-operative. Guides will assist in the rigging project, and participant ‘skill vetting’. I think this is a banger of a way to get together in a beautiful place, with friends, play on stone and ‘make party’. With any luck it will kick start a much needed Buffalo climbing renaissance. Love to know your thoughts.
Cheers Simon.
A climbing community event at Australia’s premier granite climbing venue hosted by Arcteryx.
22 of the best granite climbs in the country, between grade 12 and 22, rigged and ready for you to drop and rock(climb) with your fave climbing crew. Hosted by the local guiding squad.
Climbing at Buffalo is an awesome alpine experience. The challenge is finding, rigging and accessing the climbs. It’s a complex and intimidating prospect. We will provide ‘light touch’ guiding know-how with all the classic routes, mapped, rigged (for abseil) and ready, all you have to do is climb them.
Series runs from Easter Friday (April 18th) to Sunday the 27th (after Anzac Day).
Rack Up & Rock out!
BYO rack and the series pass will get you access to the climbing program (gps maps and logistics notes). This covers our insurance. Valid for the week. You will be buddied up, or come as a team. There will be a skill check to be sure you know what’s up, or more specifically ‘down’ in this case. $45 per person / series pass (includes Before & After party).
Climbing clinics:
Climb with a professional guide on a roving workshop specialising on ‘Crack and Layback’ climbing, ‘Slabs and Face’ technique, or tackle the Big Wall / Aid climbing. You will have the opportunity to ‘follow’ the guide, or lead and work as teams under instruction. See details below.
$120 per person (Guide ratio 1 to 4 participants).
Crack and Layback. The mysterious art of how climbers levitate up cracks, of all shapes and sizes, clearly explained. Fingers, Hands, fists and your whole body if required. Then ‘laybacking’… the wild side of crack climbing. Managing Protection, conserving energy and let’s not forget footwork. Buffalo is the the nationally recognised text book.
Slabs and Face. Not a skill unique to granite climbing, but one that gets literally ‘granular’, as does this clinic. Weight distribution and balance, efficiency and mindset are crucial to this toolkit of movement.
Big Wall Climbing. When all else fails, or the wall is just too big and steep, then we have aid climbing techniques that overcome that. This is the first step into the ‘big mountains’, from El Capitan to Trango Towers and Patagonia. Big Wall is the back-up to free climbing.
Luxe It Up…
Check-in at the Arcteryx campout at the serene Lake Catani and we will provide your tent accomdation, breakfast and dinner. You just bring a sleeping bag and your climbing kit. $80 per person per night. Whoop! book your stay as this includes the Before & After party if you are around…
Full Package Campout & Guided Clinics.
Treat yourself to a climbing holiday at home! Three days of guided climbing including three guided clinics, meals and camp accomodation. The squad will look after you so you are ready to rock… all day long. Book either Easter long weekend, or Anzac Day long weekend. Or the Tuesday - Thursday of the week between. $600per person.
